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Outsmart Your Kids With a Swimming Pool Fence

You've put in a pool (or bought a house that has one) hopefully your first thought is for safety. This article will focus on one of those protective measure; the swimming pool fence.

According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, drowning is the second leading cause of death for children 1-14 years old, and an extensive study found that 1-3 years olds made up 75 percent of the children involved in swimming pool submersion and/or drowning accidents. Protecting children from drowning or becoming submerged in a backyard swimming pool requires more than just a single safety device or barrier so just a fence is not enough, but it should definitely be installed. In many areas of the country having a pool fence is required by law.

Your pool fence should be high enough to prevent resourceful children from easily climbing over and sturdy enough to keep kids from breaking through the fence in pursuit of their goal. We highly recommend a gate that locks instead of just latching. Don?t underestimate the resourcefulness of children, they will try to get through anything.

There is a wide variety of options available including metal, mesh, wood, and plastic swimming pool fences. Metal is reliable and durable for longevity. Wood fences are eye-catching but may need repairing or painting every few years. Mesh fences are another popular option because they are removable. You wouldn?t normally consider this a benefit but there are instances where fence needs are temporary and this is the most economical and efficient for those needs.

If you are unsure of the best choice for you we suggest talking to your local expert at the swimming pool supply store. Being educated on safety and security should be top priority. But if you already have a pool, or plan to get one make sure to follow all the safety measures to keep everybody happy and safe.

What else should you do for optimal pool safety? Install pool covers and alarm systems for even more protection and warning against hazardous situations.

For more information on swimming pool accessories visit Pool Fence Supply and Pool Covers Resource

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Swimmer's Ear: It's Not Just From Swimming

Swimmer?s Ear (also known as otitis externa) is an infection of the ear and/or outer ear canal. It can cause what is commonly referred to as an ear ache (or earache). It can also cause the ear to itch or become red and inflamed. Moving your head or even touching the infected area can be very painful. Someone with Swimmer's Ear may also experience an unpleasant drainage of pus from the infected area.

Swimmer?s Ear is often caused by infection with a germ called Pseudomonas aeruginosa. This germ is common in soil and water. It's microscopic so that it can?t be seen with the naked eye. Anyone, at any age, can be afflicted by swimmer?s ear, but it occurs far more often in children and young adults.

Most people get swimmer's ear through contact with contaminated water. But even those who haven't been swimming can get it through contact with a contaminated object. Symptoms of swimmer?s ear usually begin to occur within a few days. Symptoms of Swimmer's Ear might include

Decreased hearing

Drainage

Fever

Pain that may radiate to the neck, face, or side of the head

Sensation that the ear is blocked or full

Swollen lymph nodes

The outer ear may appear to be pushed forward or away from the skull

There's a significant difference between a common childhood middle ear infection (otitis media) and Swimmer?s Ear. If you can press or wiggle the outer ear without pain or discomfort, then it's probably not Swimmer?s Ear.

Swimmer's Ear can be easily prevented by following four simple rules.

1) You should take care to dry your ears thoroughly after swimming. If you experience difficulty getting water out of your ears, apply several drops of an alcohol-based ear product into the ears. You can generally get these ear products at any pharmacy or drug store. But--and this is important--before using any drops in the ear, make sure you do not have a perforated eardrum. Using a hair dryer can also be an effective way to dry the insides of your ears.

2) Be knowledgeable about the chlorine and pH testing program at your pool. This is especially important with home pools and hot tubs. Proper chlorine and pH control are important in preventing the spread of germs that cause Swimmer?s Ear.

3) Do not swim in polluted streams, rivers, ponds or lakes. Avoid locations that have been closed due to pollution.

4) Listen to your mother's advice and never put objects into your ear. Dirty fingers can be especially dangerous. Even "clean" cotton swabs may bruise or scratch the ear canal and provide a site for an infection to start growing. If you already have an ear infection and you try to clean your ear with a cotton swab, you'll just push the germs farther back into the ear canal--and you might even damage the ear drum.

If you think you have Swimmer?s Ear, talk to your doctor right away. Swimmer?s ear can be treated effectively with antibiotic ear drops. Mild acid solutions such as boric or acetic acid are effective for early infections.

For more information on the topics covered in this article, click on Swimmer's Ear George McKenzie is a retired TV anchor, medical reporter and radio talk show host.

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Swimming Pool Chemicals Part Three-Shock

Anytime a pool is getting heavy use chlorine levels will drop as free chlorine combines with contaminants and forms chloramines. Chloramines cause that heavy ?chlorine? smell any swimmer knows and loves. Though attributed to too much chlorine it?s actually the best indicator that chlorine is way too low! The pool needs a big dose of chlorine right away or bad things will happen. This is where pool shock comes to the rescue. Designed to add lots of chlorine in just minutes shock products are often the same stuff you use day to day but in a different form. There are two kinds of shocks; chlorine based and non-chlorine. Each is useful but in different situations.

Chlorine shock

Chlorine shock comes in three forms; calcium hypchlorite (Cal Hypo), sodium dichlor ()Dichlor) or lithium hypochlorite(Lithium). Cal hypo and dichlor were discussed in Part One of this series as regular sanitizers. Lithium hypochlorite is only used as a shocking agent. In each of these products the chlorine molecule is carried or bound to a different substance; lithium, sodium or calcium. Lithium and sodium dissolve nicely in pool water, calcium doesn?t so lithium and dichlor can be added directly to a pool while calcium should be dissolved in a bucket of water before adding. If not pre-dissolved Cal Hypo will settle to the bottom and bleach lots of nice little white spots on a vinyl liner.

A shocking agent is meant to be a quick fix. The chlorine level is raised to a level as high as 10 ppm (parts per million), too high for swimming. Since unstabilized chlorine is quickly burned out by sunlight, cal hypo and lithium are nice shock agents as they are both unstabilized. Dichlor, however, is stabilized and will hang around for up to six hours. Dichlor is fine but don?t plan on using the pool for a while.

Dichlor and Cal Hypo both pack a powerful punch with 56 and 65 percent available chlorine respectively. Lithium usually provides 35 percent and is a relatively weak sister requiring a heavier dose for the same results.

All three shocks are available in convenient 1 lb. pouches or in pails up to 50 lbs. Cal hypo is the cheapest and most popular, lithium the most expensive and least used. Dichlor is mid priced and widely available. All three types require the pool to be closed until chlorine levels drop below 3 ppm.

Non Chlorine shock

A relatively new development, non-chlorine shock has proved to be a popular choice with many pool owners primarily because the pool can stay open for use even after shock is added. Pretty cool, huh?

Sort of. Non-chlorine shock, as one might expect, contains no chlorine. If chlorine is what a pool needs how does this stuff do any good? The active ingredient in non-chlorine shock is potassium monopersulfate or PMP. It has little if any oxidizing potential but it does do something pretty neat. PMP actually frees chlorine bound up in chloramine compounds and makes it available to sanitize again. And the pool can stay open while this miraculous process takes place. There is a catch. Often after prolonged summer use pool water has little or no chlorine or chloramines. Sunlight and bather load has used up almost everything. Adding non-chlorine shock at this point will do nothing because the PMP has nothing to work with. Make sure to take a total chlorine reading before using non-chlorine shock. If total chlorine is low use a shock containing chlorine.

Using Shock Properly

-Regardless of the type used it?s best to add shock when people are done using the pool for the day. The overnight hours are best because unstabilized chlorine will last longer. Remember to run that filter.

-Always try to verify that shocking your pool has pushed chlorine levels to at least 5 ppm. Lower concentrations won?t do a proper job and could lead to trouble.

-It?s good practice to pre-dissolve shock before adding to the pool even if it?s lithium or dichlor. Always add shock to water NOT water to shock.

-Remember, non-chlorine shock WILL NOT WORK if chlorine levels are too low.

Rob "Dr. Duck" Coxworth is the driving force behind Webfoot Leisure.com, an on-line retailer of swimming pools, supplies,equipment and accessories. Rob has spent many years in the pool industry in a variety of roles; CEO, manufacturers rep, consultant, National Sales Manager and part time pool float. Dr. Duck likes to write about pool issues and share the information he's gained from working with pool industry firms over the years.

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Swimming Pool Chemicals Part Two-Algaecides

You return from vacation and the pool has turned green, slimy and cloudy. The day after a big, all day party the pool has gone cloudy with that nasty hint of green. Every pool owner knows when algae gets going in the pool. Every pool owner also knows that only an algaecide will kill the pest and let the pool return to pristine condition. So after a quick trip to the pool store or garage you add algaecide and hope for the best. But wait, what IS an algaecide? What are you putting in the water with such high hopes?

Algaecides are chemicals that kill algae as opposed to sanitizers like chlorine that prevent algae and bacteria from getting a foothold in the first place. Algaecides are the last line of defense to prevent draining a pool and starting over. Although the brand names and claims are numerous there are really only two kinds of algaecide available today; metallic and quaternary ammonias. Though both types can be very effective they have different characteristics. Choosing the right algaecide is key to getting the problem solved and swimming again.

Metallic Algaecides Great for winter closing and algae blooms.

The very earliest types of pool algaecide were copper based. Copper is a proven killer and is extremely effective. Copper, either as copper sulfate or elemental copper is suspended in a carrier liquid (water) by a chemical called triethanolamine and added to pool water. Copper concentrations vary from 1 to 7 percent depending on type. Though as effective as any of the newer types of algaecide copper has drawbacks: it can stain pool hardware and turn hair green if chlorine concentrations are too high. It also builds up over time and continued use can stain even a properly balanced pool.

Silver based algaecide is also available. Used to suppress algae and bacteria in electricity-generating fuel cells on space craft, silver algaecide capitalized on use by NASA to win pool customers. Silver algaecide does work but much more slowly than copper. Along with the drawbacks associated with copper algaecides, silver based algae killers are as expensive as, well, silver!

Quaternary Ammonia (Quats) Great for maintenance and algae blooms.

Quaternary ammonia based disinfectants are everywhere; hospitals, nursing homes, restaurants, day care centers and???.swimming pools! Very effective as surface disinfectants at concentrations as low as 2.5 percent, most pool algaecides use a concentration of 30 percent to as high as 60 percent. The main drawback to quaternary ammonia algaecides is foaming. Added to pool water the agitation provided by the pool pump is enough for the algaecide to add nice suds to a pool. Not nice to look at but not a real problem. Quats are relatively inexpensive and a good anytime algaecide if a little foam isn?t a bother.

Polyquats are a refinement of quat algaecides and eliminate the foaming problem entirely. Available in concentrations as high as 60 percent they do the job perfectly but at prices approaching $30 per quart a little foaming might not look so bad. The high price might also be because there is only one U.S. manufacturer!

Low foaming quats are a compromise. Significantly less money than polyquats the foam problem is greatly minimized at a price that makes more sense to many pool owners. Low foam quats are very effective.

Using algaecides

-Always add algaecide first. Let it work overnight before shocking. Chlorine will oxidize and destroy the algaecide if added too soon. If the algaecide is metallic staining is an additional reason to wait.

-Check the ingredients. Look for the active ingredients; copper, ammonia etc. Also check the active percentage. If it?s below 30 percent look elsewhere. In particular avoid gallon jugs of algaecide. Generally this bargain stuff has only 5-10 percent active ingredients and will actually cost more to do the same job.

-Spread the algaecide as evenly as possible around the perimeter of the pool. Better distribution means faster action.

-Don?t overdose. More is NOT better especially if using a metallic algaecide.

Rob "Dr. Duck" Coxworth is the driving force behind Webfoot Leisure.com, an on-line retailer of swimming pools, supplies,equipment and accessories. Rob has spent many years in the pool industry in a variety of roles; CEO, manufacturers rep, consultant, National Sales Manager and part time pool float. Dr. Duck likes to write about pool issues and share the information he's gained from working with pool industry firms over the years.

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